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posted by Unknown @ 8:46 AM
1 comments
Wednesday, July 06, 2005
Skid Row - Monkey Business
Outside my window there´s a
Whole lot of trouble comin´
The cartoon killers and the
Rag cover clones
Stack heels kickin´ rhythm
Of social circumcision
Can´t close the closet on
Shoe box full of bones
Kangaroo lady with her bourbon
in a pouch
Can´t afford the rental on
a bamboo couch
Collecting back her favors ´cause her
well is running dry
I know her act is terminal,
But she ain´t gonna die
Slim intoxicado drinkin´ dime
store hooch
Is always in a circle with his
part-time pooch
Little creepy´s playing dollies in the
New York rain
Thinkin´ Bowie´s just a knife
Ooh the pain
I ain´t seen the sun since I don´t
know when
The freaks come out at nine
And it´s twenty to ten
What´s this funk
That you call junk
To me it´s just monkey business
Blind man in the vox that will
probably die
The village kids laugh as they walk by
A psycho is on the edge of this human
garbage dump
And the vultures in the sewers
are telling
Him to jump
Into the fire from the frying pan
Tripping on his tounge
For a cool place to stand
Where´s this shade
That you´ve got it made
To me it´s just monkey business
Monkey business
Slippin´ on the track
Monkey business
Jungle in black
Ain´t your business if I got
No monkey on my back
Monkey business
Slippin´ on the track
Monkey business
Jungle in black
Ain´t your business
If I got
Monkey´s on my back
The vaseline gypsies and silicone souls
Dressed to the society
Hypocrite heartbeat and cheap alibis
Can´t get you by that monkey
Outside my window there´s a
Whole lot of trouble comin´
The cartoon killers and the
Rag cover clones
Stack heels kickin´ rhythm
Of social circumcision
Can´t close the closet on
Shoe box full of bones
Kangaroo lady with her bourbon
in a pouch
Can´t afford the rental on
a bamboo couch
Collecting back her favors ´cause her
well is running dry
I know her act is terminal,
But she ain´t gonna die
Slim intoxicado drinkin´ dime
store hooch
Is always in a circle with his
part-time pooch
Little creepy´s playing dollies in the
New York rain
Thinkin´ Bowie´s just a knife
Ooh the pain
I ain´t seen the sun since I don´t
know when
The freaks come out at nine
And it´s twenty to ten
What´s this funk
That you call junk
To me it´s just monkey business
Blind man in the vox that will
probably die
The village kids laugh as they walk by
A psycho is on the edge of this human
garbage dump
And the vultures in the sewers
are telling
Him to jump
Into the fire from the frying pan
Tripping on his tounge
For a cool place to stand
Where´s this shade
That you´ve got it made
To me it´s just monkey business
Monkey business
Slippin´ on the track
Monkey business
Jungle in black
Ain´t your business if I got
No monkey on my back
Monkey business
Slippin´ on the track
Monkey business
Jungle in black
Ain´t your business
If I got
Monkey´s on my back
The vaseline gypsies and silicone souls
Dressed to the society
Hypocrite heartbeat and cheap alibis
Can´t get you by that monkey
posted by Unknown @ 8:42 AM
0 comments
Tuesday, July 05, 2005
Wrocław (Wroclaw) is an excellent example of a multicultural metropolis situated at the interface of ethnically diverse areas. For a greater part of the city's history, German was the dominant language in Wrocław (Wroclaw). However, for several generations the city was home to the Korn publishing house, which printed many books in Polish (250 titles between 1732 and 1790). Here the German playwright Karl Holtei staged a play about the Polish national hero Tadeusz Kościuszko (Tadeus Kosciusko) in 1826. The Czechs have also played an important role in the city's history (in 1335- 1526 Wrocław (Wroclaw) belonged to the Kingdom of Bohemia). As late as 1719, the great sculptor Johann Georg Urbański (Urbanski) of Bohemia was given the key to the city.
Multiculturalism again left a very deep impress on the city's character after the Second World War, when the city's German population was largely replaced by people arriving from various regions of Poland, including those resettled from the eastern provinces of Poland taken over by the Soviet Union. In particular, many former citizens of Wilno (Vilnius) and Lwów (Lvov) settled here. With them came the great library collection of the Ossoliński (Ossolinski) Institution from Lwów (Lvov), which found a new location in the magnificent Baroque edifice of the former monastery of the Red Star Knights of the Cross. Two other works of unique significance for Polish culture were transferred from Lwów (Lvov): the statue of the leading Polish comic dramatist, Count Aleksander Fredro, and the Panorama of the Battle of Racławice (Raclawice), a monumental painting representing the victorious battle with the Russian forces fought by Tadeusz Kościuszko (Tadeus Kosciusko) on 4 April 1794, one of only several paintings of this kind to have survived in Europe until the present. It took over 35 years before it was possible to show the Panorama to the public, but today it is one of the city's most popular tourist attractions.
Multiculturalism again left a very deep impress on the city's character after the Second World War, when the city's German population was largely replaced by people arriving from various regions of Poland, including those resettled from the eastern provinces of Poland taken over by the Soviet Union. In particular, many former citizens of Wilno (Vilnius) and Lwów (Lvov) settled here. With them came the great library collection of the Ossoliński (Ossolinski) Institution from Lwów (Lvov), which found a new location in the magnificent Baroque edifice of the former monastery of the Red Star Knights of the Cross. Two other works of unique significance for Polish culture were transferred from Lwów (Lvov): the statue of the leading Polish comic dramatist, Count Aleksander Fredro, and the Panorama of the Battle of Racławice (Raclawice), a monumental painting representing the victorious battle with the Russian forces fought by Tadeusz Kościuszko (Tadeus Kosciusko) on 4 April 1794, one of only several paintings of this kind to have survived in Europe until the present. It took over 35 years before it was possible to show the Panorama to the public, but today it is one of the city's most popular tourist attractions.
posted by Unknown @ 7:25 AM
0 comments
from:
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/poland/printable.htm
Lonely Planet,
Poland,
Wroclaw
Introduction
For centuries, Poland has been a bridge between the East and West. Set in the heart of Europe, Poland is a multifaceted country where the capital and medieval towns are trawled by contemporary city slickers, and where horse-drawn carts negotiate country lanes, untouched by progress.
Poland remains reasonably cheap and safe, with hospitable people who welcome visitors. Over the past decade, it has developed into a modern, vibrant and progressive state, yet at the same time it maintains its traditional culture. It's a fascinating destination and now is a good time to go.
Situated in the heartland of Europe, Poland has been both a bridge and a front line between eastern and western Europe. Today, free from outside interference, Poland is the place to go if you're interested in seeing how a nation picks itself up off the floor and tries to reinvent itself. It's a multifaceted country where the capital and medieval old towns are coddled by contemporary city slickers and where horse-drawn carts negotiate country lanes in areas where the 20th century appears to have got lost somewhere down the road.
Full country name: Republic of Poland
Area: 312,685 sq km
Population: 38.62 million
Capital City: Warsaw (pop 1.75 million)
People: 98% Polish, plus Ukrainian and Belarussian minorities
Language: Polish, German, English
Religion: 95% Roman Catholic
Government: republic
Head of State: President Aleksander Kwaśniewski
Head of Government: Prime Minister Marek Belka
GDP: US$373.2 billion
GDP per capita: US$12,000
Inflation: 5.6%
Major Industries: machinery, iron & steel, chemicals & agriculture
Major Trading Partners: EU (esp. France, German, Italy, UK), Russia
Member of EU: Yes
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Facts for the Traveler
Visas: Citizens of most EU countries and the USA can enter Poland without a visa and stay for 90 days. As of 1 May, 2004 holders of Australian, New Zealand and Brunei Darussalam passports travelling to Poland for a period of up to 90 days do not require a Polish visa. Border laws are being liberalised so check with a Polish embassy before you leave.
Time Zone: GMT/UTC +1 (Central European Time)
Dialling Code: 48
Electricity: 230V ,50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric
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When to Go
The tourist season runs roughly from May to September, peaking in July and August. At this time the Baltic beaches are taken over by swarms of humanity, resorts and spas are invaded by tourists, Masurian lakes are crowded with thousands of sailboats, and mountains can hardly be seen for walkers. Perhaps the best time to come is either late spring (mid-May to June) or the turn of summer and autumn (September to mid-October). These are pleasantly warm periods and there are plenty of cultural activities going on. During winter it's cold and dark (as you'd expect) and many camp sites and hostels are closed, but its still a good time for visiting Poland's cities.
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Events
With a strongly Roman Catholic population, Christian celebrations in Poland are of huge importance. This is particularly evident at Christmas and Easter, but any Sunday is good for getting a taste of Polish devotion and religious fervour. All the churches (and they are truly in good supply) fill up beyond their capacity during the Sunday masses.
The musical highlights are myriad: Kraków hosts the Music in Old Kraków International Festival every August, and Wrocław follows in September with the Wratislavia Cantans, replete with oratorios and cantatas. Warsaw is a thriving cultural centre, with contemporary music showcases in autumn, including jazz in late October. The Warsaw Theatre Meetings in January review the achievements of the best Polish theatres over the past year. The Polish Film Festival in Gdynia in November is the foremost presentation of Poland on celluloid.
Small local feasts, fairs and contests, often dependent upon local folklore, occur throughout Poland, with a pleasing glut in early summer and early autumn.
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Money & Costs
Currency: Zloty (zl)
Relative Costs:
Meals
Budget: zl10-20
Mid-range: zl20-35
High: zl35-55
Deluxe: zl55+
Lodging
Budget: zl30-90
Mid-range: zl90-180
High: zl180-360
Deluxe: zl360+
Though not the bargain it used to be, Poland is still a cheap country for travellers. If you are accustomed to rental cars and plush hotels, you can spend almost as much as you would in Western Europe. However, if you can get by with cheap hotels, medium-priced restaurants, bus or train travel, a few beers, the odd museum and occasional taxis, you should be able to get by on around USD30.00a day.
However you carry it, your money will generally be safe while you're travelling in Poland. Cheques are reasonably easy to exchange wherever you go, but you'll get a slightly better rate with cash. Credit cards are becoming more useful - you can use them to pay for up-market hotels and restaurants, car rentals and long-distance transport. You can also get cash advances with the major cards.
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Attractions
Warsaw
Emerging like a phoenix from the ashes of WWII, Warsaw is essentially a postwar city. Its handful of historic precincts have been meticulously reconstructed, but most of its urban landscape is modern, from the dull products of the Stalin era to more creative efforts of recent years.
Warsaw's main north-south boulevard is the Royal Way, running from the Royal Castle to Lazienki Palace, the royal summer residence. This is one of Europe's grandest stretches of road, with churches, palaces, galleries and museums lining the route.
Great Masurian Lakes
The central part of Masuria has the biggest concentration of lakes in Poland, with over 15% of the area under water. The main lakes, the Śniardwy and the Mamry, are linked by rivers and canals to form an extensive system of waterways. It's a prime destination for yachting enthusiasts and canoeists.
Towns are dotted around the lakes' perimeters, with Giżycko and Mikołajki the largest. Mikołajki is the best option for accommodation and gastronomical offerings, but most places close out of season. Cycle touring is a feasible way of seeing the lakes area as public transport is a bit patchy.
Krakow
Kraków came through WWII unscathed; the 20th century's impact having been confined to acid rain. It has retained a wealth of old architecture from different periods; the tallest structures dominating Kraków's skyline are the spires of old churches. It's a city alive with character and soul.
As the royal capital for half a millennium, Kraków absorbed more of Poland's history than any other city in the country. It then had the good fortune to emerge from WWII unscathed. As a result, it's not just Poland's most popular tourist destination, it's an architectural and cultural gem.
Oswiecim
Hardly an attraction in the normal sparkly sense, Oświęcim is a medium-sized industrial town 60km (37mi) west of Kraków. The Polish name may be unfamiliar but its German rendering, Auschwitz, is tragically resonant. What's left of the death factories still evokes the magnitude of the holocaust.
Between 1.1 and 1.5 million people, 90% of them Jews, were killed in Auschwitz and the linked complex at nearby Birkenau. Both remain basically as they were when abandoned by the Nazis. The stories which live in the gas chambers, crematoria, barracks and barbed wire make this a haunted and shocking place.
The Tatras
The Tatras are the highest of all the Carpathians and the country's only alpine range. It's a region of towering peaks and steep rocky cliffs plunging hundreds of metres into glacial lakes. Winters are long and summers are short and not steamy enough to melt all the snow.
Zakopane is the tourist hub of the Polish Tatras. It's a pleasant town, especially out of the summer and winter holiday periods, and is a good base for skiing or hiking in the mountains. Come when late spring and early autumn straddle the happy valley, there is good weather and fewer visitors.
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Off the Beaten Track
Glogowek
Hidden in the Sudeten foothills, Glogowek is one of a number of small medieval towns which have preserved their original layout complete with town square, church and old houses. The black Virgin Mary with Child in the replica Italian shrine here is a magnet for pilgrims.
Torun
Two hundred kilometres (120mi) south of Gdańsk, Toruń is the birthplace of Copernicus, the man who 'stopped the sun and moved the earth'. It's a beautiful town dating back to the 13th century, when the Teutonic Knights set about transforming it into one of their early outposts.
The town became a Hanseatic port in the 1280s, garnering wealth that spurred the construction of the elegant Gothic buildings you can see today. If you spend a few days wandering around munching on the local gingerbread your only problem will be OD-ing on picture-postcard perfection.
Zamosc
Designed in its entirety four centuries ago, Zamość was built in one swoop at the behest of Jan Zamoyski, the chancellor of the time. Zamoyski intended to create a perfect city, which would be an important cultural and trading centre and an impregnable fortress.
This proved to be a successful venture since the town was situated at the intersection of major trading routes. Today it's a charming place, well off the tourist trail, but with reasonable cheap accommodation and some good bars and clubs. Transport links are mostly through Lublin.
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Activities
Hiking is the most popular of outdoor activities, and not without reason. The most popular hiking routes are those in the Tatra Mountains but the Pieniny, the Bieszczady or the Karkonosze are all options. Canoeing is possible on most waterways, though the main rivers are pretty polluted. The Krutynia and Czarna Hańcza Rivers, both in Masuria, are almost untouched and have some of the best kayaking in the country. The Masurian lakes are ideal for sailing and, not surprisingly, they are crowded with hundreds of boats in summer. It's possible to hire a sailing boat in Giżycko, Mikołajki or several other Masurian resorts. Poland has about a thousand caves, mostly in the uplands near Kraków and in the Tatra Mountains. For those unwilling to plunge into uncharted blackness, a handful of caves are adapted for the spatially-sane. The most spectacular of these are the Bear's Cave near Kłodzko and the Paradise Cave near Kielce. Skiing is mostly concentrated in the Carpathians. Zakopane, at the foot of the Tatra Mountains is without a doubt ski-bunny warren numero uno, with Szczyrk in the Beskid Śłaski also popular.
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History
There's obviously something about the borders of Poland that say 'Hey, come and get it'. All of the great (and many of the lesser) European empire builders have been bingeing and purging here since the Polanie ('people of the fields') parked themselves in the 10th century. The unrelenting incursions have ceased only recently with the waning of Soviet influence.
But war and subjugation is not Poland's only story. One of Europe's cultural powerhouses, as well as its erstwhile granary, Poland has flourished under some enlightened and energetic rulers. Casimir III the Great (1333-70) was a monarch of some renown, bestowing one of Europe's first universities on Kraków, and an extensive network of castles and fortifications on the country at large. Through the ensuing centuries of territorial expansion and contraction, and of wealth and poverty, the infrastructures bequeathed by Casimir held firm - most of Poland's troubles blew in from outside.
Internal stability faltered in the 17th century. With the parliament crippled by a stipulation that any legislation could be vetoed by any one member, decades stumbled by without one law being passed and Poland was frustrated into dissent. While the nobles took things into their own hands, usurping political rights and ruling their vast estates as virtual suzerainties, foreign invaders systematically carved up Poland. Russia exerted the most influence but telling battles were also conducted with Tatars, Ukrainians, Cossacks, Ottomans and Swedes.
By the late 19th century, Poland was in disarray. Four million people had succumbed to war, famine and bubonic plague, and Russia, Prussia and Austria were experimenting with various ways of splitting the Polish booty. Despite steady economic recovery on paper, poverty was still very much the go in rural areas and about one fifth of Poland's 20 million people emigrated, mostly to the USA.
Just when it seemed like Poland had put together a pretty fine working definition of 'worst ever', WWI kicked in. With Poland's three occupying powers at war, most fighting took place on territories inhabited by Poles, who were often conscripted into opposing occupying armies and forced to fight one another. The loss of life and livelihood was staggering. In the confusion following the war, particularly Russia's preoccupation with the October Revolution, Poland was able to consolidate its bedraggled self into a sovereign identity and attempted to build up its nation and nationhood practically from scratch. This monumental project was going along pretty well until WWII, when first Germany and then the Soviet Union gobbled up Poland, viciously subduing the population at large - the Nazis paying particular attention to the Jews.
The Polish government in exile slipped into a de facto relationship with Stalin, a sordid alliance with little to offer Poles still in Poland. Particularly charming was the Soviet trick of sending underequipped Polish bodies to soak up Nazi ammunition, then sending in the Red Army to clean up, grabbing the glory and a bit more Polish territory in the process. By 1945, Poland was ruined (again), having lost over six million of its population, half of whom were Jews. At the Yalta Conference in February 1945, Roosevelt, Churchill and Stalin decided to leave Poland under Soviet control (thanks guys) and Poland became a site of repression and victimisation Stalin-style. Unsurprisingly, Poles never embraced Stalinism and the communist period featured waves of strikes.
As hopes for prosperity dwindled, labour organisation increased, backed by a committed intelligentsia. The triumphal visit of Pope John Paul II to his homeland in 1978 dramatically increased political ferment. The organisation and articulation of the labour movement became superior to that of the demoralised Communist government and, by 1980, the government was no longer in a position to use force against its opponents. Initial demands for wage rises soon took on more general political and economic overtones. Poland's workers' delegations convened under the Solidarity trade union banner, led by Lech Wałęsa. Solidarity had a dramatic effect on the whole of Polish society, garnering a membership of 10 million in its first month, a million of these coming from Communist Party ranks. After more than a generation of restraint, the Poles launched themselves into a spontaneous and chaotic sort of democracy. Although the government had ceded to the workers the right to organise and the right to strike all this was proving a bit much to take: martial law was introduced in 1981, Solidarity was suspended and its leaders, including Wałęsa, interned. The brutalities of martial law were gradually relaxed but Solidarity was forced to operate as an underground organisation until the Gorbachov-instigated perestroika filtered through to Poland.
Semifree elections were held in 1989 and Solidarity succeeded in getting an overwhelming majority of its supporters elected to the upper house of parliament. Wałęsa became president in 1990 but his rule was a gradual decline from euphoria to disillusionment. There were no economic miracles, no political stability and Wałęsa's presidential style and his accomplishments were repeatedly questioned by practically all political parties and the majority of the electorate.
Former communists Aleksander Kwaśniewski and Włodzimierz Cimoszewicz tipped Wałęsa from the presidency in late 1995, holding office until late 1997, when Jerzy Buzek's Solidarity-led coalition took the reins. But it wasn't long before Aleksander Kwaśniewski, running for the Democratic Left Alliance, recaptured political control and, to top it all off, was then re-elected for a second presidential term in October 2000 - in the same elections, the once-revered Wałęsa won less than 1% of the vote.
Aleksander Kwaśniewski won a second term in 2000. The political system has been marked by stability and a willingness to confront its past - in 2001 Polish citizens were allowed to view the files kept on them by the Communist secret police. While the economy has attracted international investment, unemployment remains high and income growth low.
However, the new Poland is garnering international credibility as it capitalises on its material strengths - it became a full NATO member in 1999 and joined the EU in 2004. Its international standing has been boosted by its role in the US-led coalition that invaded Iraq in 2003.
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Culture
Artists in Poland today are still shaking off the legacy of Communism under Stalin. During this period, Socialist Realism was the dominant style, infusing the visual arts, architecture, literature and music. Fine fiction writers such as Isaac Bashevis Singer, whose evocative works capture the spirit of Jewish Poland, put Polish literature under the spotlight. Current prominent exponents of Polish culture include writers such as Ryszard Kapuscinski and composer Henryk Górecki. Their work contributes to the formulation of a contemporary cultural identity for this fascinating country.
Polish food is hearty and filling, with thick soups and sauces, abundant in potatoes and dumplings, rich in meat but not in vegetables. Characteristic ingredients are dill, marjoram, caraway seeds and wild mushrooms; favourite dishes include bigos (sauerkraut and meat) and barszcz (beetroot soup). There are four daily meals in Poland: an early breakfast, a light snack for second breakfast, a substantial lunch taken after work, and a small supper before bed. Tea and vodka are the favoured Polish beverages, both consumed with fervour, but to somewhat differing effect.
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Environment
Poland is roughly square, reaching a maximum of about 680km (422mi) from west to east and 650km (404mi) from north to south. It's bordered by the Baltic Sea to the northwest, by Germany to the west, the Czech and Slovak republics to the south and Ukraine, Belarus, Lithuania and Russia to the east. The northern part of Poland is varied and gently undulating, relatively well forested and covered by several thousand postglacial lakes. The flat central belt is the main agricultural area, watered by Poland's longest river, the Vistula, which, like all Poland's rivers, runs towards the north, draining into the Baltic Sea. Moving south, the terrain rises, culminating in the west with the Sudeten Mountains and to the east with the Carpathian Mountains, which run along the southern frontier. The highest peak is Mt Rysy (2499m/8199ft) in the Carpathian's Tatra Mountains, Poland's alpine range.
Poland's national parks are scattered evenly throughout the country, with a concentration in the mountainous regions of the southeast. 'Landscape parks' can be found throughout Poland; these are scenic regions but not so strictly preserved.
Forests cover just over a quarter of Poland's territory, and are populated by hare, deer and wild boar. Some brown bears and wildcats live in the mountain forests and elks can be found in the woods of the far northeast. Several hundred European bison, brought to the brink of extinction early last century, live in the Białowieża National Park. Airborne creatures have proved more resilient in urbanised and polluted Europe, as a cursory glance at the Polish sky will attest. Storks, which build their nests on the roofs and chimneys of the houses in the countryside, are much loved.
Poland's climate is influenced by a continental climate from the east and a maritime climate from the west. As a result, the weather is changeable, with significant differences from day to day and from year to year. Winter one year can be almost without snow, whereas another year heavy snows can paralyse transport for days. Generally, central Poland is the driest, while the mountains receive much more rain (and snow in winter). Summer is usually warm and the most pleasant time to visit, but the plentiful sunshine is interspersed with heavy rains.
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Getting There & Away
There are direct flights to Warsaw from major European destinations, as well as from US cities such as New York and Chicago, which have large Polish communities. There is no departure tax. Train and bus fares from some European destinations can be as expensive as discounted air fares, unless you have some kind of transport pass. Road connections with Poland are good and getting better, but there are still border delays, especially when crossing from other Eastern European countries. There are sea connections from the UK and Scandinavia to Gdańsk, Gdynia and Świnoujście. Most services have car-freighting facilities.
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Getting Around
There is a comprehensive network of domestic air routes. All flights between regional cities travel via Warsaw, and connections aren't always convenient. There are attractive standby fares for young people and promotional fares on selected flights in certain periods that are available to everybody. The trains are pretty good and where they don't go the buses do. As well as the plodding government service, private bus companies undercut each other viciously on many intercity routes. Driving your own vehicle around Poland is by far the most convenient option, but don't bring your spiffing new Jaguar, even if you forewent the walnut trim: it's gonna get ripped off. Fill up your tank every time you see a petrol station and carry some spare mechanical bits and pieces, otherwise you'll be waiting around for a couple of weeks for them to arrive from Germany. Rural Poland, being mostly flat and relatively quiet, is quite conducive to cycle touring, but the urban areas are bike-unfriendly, with few dedicated paths and many hostile motorists.
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Further Reading
For a taste of Polish fiction, try Jerzy Kosinski's The Painted Bird.
Poland by James A Michener is a dramatised version of Polish history. It reads well and is solidly based on fact.
God's Playground: a History of Poland by Norman Davies is one of the best accounts of Polish history. This two-volume beautifully readable work has at the same time a rare analytical depth, thus being a perfect key to understanding a thousand years of the Polish nation.
Jews in Poland: A Documentary History by Iwo Cyprian Pogonowski provides a comprehensive record of half a millennium of Polish-Jewish relations in the country which, until WW II, was the major centre of Jewish culture in Europe. Forgotten Holocaust: The Poles under German Occupation 1939-1945 by Richard C Lukas is yet another carefully researched account of these cruel days.
Turning to the more recent history, The Polish Revolution: Solidarity 1980-82 by Timothy Garton Ash, is probably the best insight into the Solidarity era.
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Disclaimer: Although we've tried to make the information on this web site as accurate as possible, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person resulting from information published on this site. We encourage you to verify any critical information with the relevant authorities before you travel. This includes information on visa requirements, health and safety, customs, and transportation.
All text and images © 2003 Lonely Planet Publications. All rights reserved.
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/poland/printable.htm
Lonely Planet,
Poland,
Wroclaw
Introduction
For centuries, Poland has been a bridge between the East and West. Set in the heart of Europe, Poland is a multifaceted country where the capital and medieval towns are trawled by contemporary city slickers, and where horse-drawn carts negotiate country lanes, untouched by progress.
Poland remains reasonably cheap and safe, with hospitable people who welcome visitors. Over the past decade, it has developed into a modern, vibrant and progressive state, yet at the same time it maintains its traditional culture. It's a fascinating destination and now is a good time to go.
Situated in the heartland of Europe, Poland has been both a bridge and a front line between eastern and western Europe. Today, free from outside interference, Poland is the place to go if you're interested in seeing how a nation picks itself up off the floor and tries to reinvent itself. It's a multifaceted country where the capital and medieval old towns are coddled by contemporary city slickers and where horse-drawn carts negotiate country lanes in areas where the 20th century appears to have got lost somewhere down the road.
Full country name: Republic of Poland
Area: 312,685 sq km
Population: 38.62 million
Capital City: Warsaw (pop 1.75 million)
People: 98% Polish, plus Ukrainian and Belarussian minorities
Language: Polish, German, English
Religion: 95% Roman Catholic
Government: republic
Head of State: President Aleksander Kwaśniewski
Head of Government: Prime Minister Marek Belka
GDP: US$373.2 billion
GDP per capita: US$12,000
Inflation: 5.6%
Major Industries: machinery, iron & steel, chemicals & agriculture
Major Trading Partners: EU (esp. France, German, Italy, UK), Russia
Member of EU: Yes
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Facts for the Traveler
Visas: Citizens of most EU countries and the USA can enter Poland without a visa and stay for 90 days. As of 1 May, 2004 holders of Australian, New Zealand and Brunei Darussalam passports travelling to Poland for a period of up to 90 days do not require a Polish visa. Border laws are being liberalised so check with a Polish embassy before you leave.
Time Zone: GMT/UTC +1 (Central European Time)
Dialling Code: 48
Electricity: 230V ,50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric
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When to Go
The tourist season runs roughly from May to September, peaking in July and August. At this time the Baltic beaches are taken over by swarms of humanity, resorts and spas are invaded by tourists, Masurian lakes are crowded with thousands of sailboats, and mountains can hardly be seen for walkers. Perhaps the best time to come is either late spring (mid-May to June) or the turn of summer and autumn (September to mid-October). These are pleasantly warm periods and there are plenty of cultural activities going on. During winter it's cold and dark (as you'd expect) and many camp sites and hostels are closed, but its still a good time for visiting Poland's cities.
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Events
With a strongly Roman Catholic population, Christian celebrations in Poland are of huge importance. This is particularly evident at Christmas and Easter, but any Sunday is good for getting a taste of Polish devotion and religious fervour. All the churches (and they are truly in good supply) fill up beyond their capacity during the Sunday masses.
The musical highlights are myriad: Kraków hosts the Music in Old Kraków International Festival every August, and Wrocław follows in September with the Wratislavia Cantans, replete with oratorios and cantatas. Warsaw is a thriving cultural centre, with contemporary music showcases in autumn, including jazz in late October. The Warsaw Theatre Meetings in January review the achievements of the best Polish theatres over the past year. The Polish Film Festival in Gdynia in November is the foremost presentation of Poland on celluloid.
Small local feasts, fairs and contests, often dependent upon local folklore, occur throughout Poland, with a pleasing glut in early summer and early autumn.
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Money & Costs
Currency: Zloty (zl)
Relative Costs:
Meals
Budget: zl10-20
Mid-range: zl20-35
High: zl35-55
Deluxe: zl55+
Lodging
Budget: zl30-90
Mid-range: zl90-180
High: zl180-360
Deluxe: zl360+
Though not the bargain it used to be, Poland is still a cheap country for travellers. If you are accustomed to rental cars and plush hotels, you can spend almost as much as you would in Western Europe. However, if you can get by with cheap hotels, medium-priced restaurants, bus or train travel, a few beers, the odd museum and occasional taxis, you should be able to get by on around USD30.00a day.
However you carry it, your money will generally be safe while you're travelling in Poland. Cheques are reasonably easy to exchange wherever you go, but you'll get a slightly better rate with cash. Credit cards are becoming more useful - you can use them to pay for up-market hotels and restaurants, car rentals and long-distance transport. You can also get cash advances with the major cards.
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Attractions
Warsaw
Emerging like a phoenix from the ashes of WWII, Warsaw is essentially a postwar city. Its handful of historic precincts have been meticulously reconstructed, but most of its urban landscape is modern, from the dull products of the Stalin era to more creative efforts of recent years.
Warsaw's main north-south boulevard is the Royal Way, running from the Royal Castle to Lazienki Palace, the royal summer residence. This is one of Europe's grandest stretches of road, with churches, palaces, galleries and museums lining the route.
Great Masurian Lakes
The central part of Masuria has the biggest concentration of lakes in Poland, with over 15% of the area under water. The main lakes, the Śniardwy and the Mamry, are linked by rivers and canals to form an extensive system of waterways. It's a prime destination for yachting enthusiasts and canoeists.
Towns are dotted around the lakes' perimeters, with Giżycko and Mikołajki the largest. Mikołajki is the best option for accommodation and gastronomical offerings, but most places close out of season. Cycle touring is a feasible way of seeing the lakes area as public transport is a bit patchy.
Krakow
Kraków came through WWII unscathed; the 20th century's impact having been confined to acid rain. It has retained a wealth of old architecture from different periods; the tallest structures dominating Kraków's skyline are the spires of old churches. It's a city alive with character and soul.
As the royal capital for half a millennium, Kraków absorbed more of Poland's history than any other city in the country. It then had the good fortune to emerge from WWII unscathed. As a result, it's not just Poland's most popular tourist destination, it's an architectural and cultural gem.
Oswiecim
Hardly an attraction in the normal sparkly sense, Oświęcim is a medium-sized industrial town 60km (37mi) west of Kraków. The Polish name may be unfamiliar but its German rendering, Auschwitz, is tragically resonant. What's left of the death factories still evokes the magnitude of the holocaust.
Between 1.1 and 1.5 million people, 90% of them Jews, were killed in Auschwitz and the linked complex at nearby Birkenau. Both remain basically as they were when abandoned by the Nazis. The stories which live in the gas chambers, crematoria, barracks and barbed wire make this a haunted and shocking place.
The Tatras
The Tatras are the highest of all the Carpathians and the country's only alpine range. It's a region of towering peaks and steep rocky cliffs plunging hundreds of metres into glacial lakes. Winters are long and summers are short and not steamy enough to melt all the snow.
Zakopane is the tourist hub of the Polish Tatras. It's a pleasant town, especially out of the summer and winter holiday periods, and is a good base for skiing or hiking in the mountains. Come when late spring and early autumn straddle the happy valley, there is good weather and fewer visitors.
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Off the Beaten Track
Glogowek
Hidden in the Sudeten foothills, Glogowek is one of a number of small medieval towns which have preserved their original layout complete with town square, church and old houses. The black Virgin Mary with Child in the replica Italian shrine here is a magnet for pilgrims.
Torun
Two hundred kilometres (120mi) south of Gdańsk, Toruń is the birthplace of Copernicus, the man who 'stopped the sun and moved the earth'. It's a beautiful town dating back to the 13th century, when the Teutonic Knights set about transforming it into one of their early outposts.
The town became a Hanseatic port in the 1280s, garnering wealth that spurred the construction of the elegant Gothic buildings you can see today. If you spend a few days wandering around munching on the local gingerbread your only problem will be OD-ing on picture-postcard perfection.
Zamosc
Designed in its entirety four centuries ago, Zamość was built in one swoop at the behest of Jan Zamoyski, the chancellor of the time. Zamoyski intended to create a perfect city, which would be an important cultural and trading centre and an impregnable fortress.
This proved to be a successful venture since the town was situated at the intersection of major trading routes. Today it's a charming place, well off the tourist trail, but with reasonable cheap accommodation and some good bars and clubs. Transport links are mostly through Lublin.
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Activities
Hiking is the most popular of outdoor activities, and not without reason. The most popular hiking routes are those in the Tatra Mountains but the Pieniny, the Bieszczady or the Karkonosze are all options. Canoeing is possible on most waterways, though the main rivers are pretty polluted. The Krutynia and Czarna Hańcza Rivers, both in Masuria, are almost untouched and have some of the best kayaking in the country. The Masurian lakes are ideal for sailing and, not surprisingly, they are crowded with hundreds of boats in summer. It's possible to hire a sailing boat in Giżycko, Mikołajki or several other Masurian resorts. Poland has about a thousand caves, mostly in the uplands near Kraków and in the Tatra Mountains. For those unwilling to plunge into uncharted blackness, a handful of caves are adapted for the spatially-sane. The most spectacular of these are the Bear's Cave near Kłodzko and the Paradise Cave near Kielce. Skiing is mostly concentrated in the Carpathians. Zakopane, at the foot of the Tatra Mountains is without a doubt ski-bunny warren numero uno, with Szczyrk in the Beskid Śłaski also popular.
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History
There's obviously something about the borders of Poland that say 'Hey, come and get it'. All of the great (and many of the lesser) European empire builders have been bingeing and purging here since the Polanie ('people of the fields') parked themselves in the 10th century. The unrelenting incursions have ceased only recently with the waning of Soviet influence.
But war and subjugation is not Poland's only story. One of Europe's cultural powerhouses, as well as its erstwhile granary, Poland has flourished under some enlightened and energetic rulers. Casimir III the Great (1333-70) was a monarch of some renown, bestowing one of Europe's first universities on Kraków, and an extensive network of castles and fortifications on the country at large. Through the ensuing centuries of territorial expansion and contraction, and of wealth and poverty, the infrastructures bequeathed by Casimir held firm - most of Poland's troubles blew in from outside.
Internal stability faltered in the 17th century. With the parliament crippled by a stipulation that any legislation could be vetoed by any one member, decades stumbled by without one law being passed and Poland was frustrated into dissent. While the nobles took things into their own hands, usurping political rights and ruling their vast estates as virtual suzerainties, foreign invaders systematically carved up Poland. Russia exerted the most influence but telling battles were also conducted with Tatars, Ukrainians, Cossacks, Ottomans and Swedes.
By the late 19th century, Poland was in disarray. Four million people had succumbed to war, famine and bubonic plague, and Russia, Prussia and Austria were experimenting with various ways of splitting the Polish booty. Despite steady economic recovery on paper, poverty was still very much the go in rural areas and about one fifth of Poland's 20 million people emigrated, mostly to the USA.
Just when it seemed like Poland had put together a pretty fine working definition of 'worst ever', WWI kicked in. With Poland's three occupying powers at war, most fighting took place on territories inhabited by Poles, who were often conscripted into opposing occupying armies and forced to fight one another. The loss of life and livelihood was staggering. In the confusion following the war, particularly Russia's preoccupation with the October Revolution, Poland was able to consolidate its bedraggled self into a sovereign identity and attempted to build up its nation and nationhood practically from scratch. This monumental project was going along pretty well until WWII, when first Germany and then the Soviet Union gobbled up Poland, viciously subduing the population at large - the Nazis paying particular attention to the Jews.
The Polish government in exile slipped into a de facto relationship with Stalin, a sordid alliance with little to offer Poles still in Poland. Particularly charming was the Soviet trick of sending underequipped Polish bodies to soak up Nazi ammunition, then sending in the Red Army to clean up, grabbing the glory and a bit more Polish territory in the process. By 1945, Poland was ruined (again), having lost over six million of its population, half of whom were Jews. At the Yalta Conference in February 1945, Roosevelt, Churchill and Stalin decided to leave Poland under Soviet control (thanks guys) and Poland became a site of repression and victimisation Stalin-style. Unsurprisingly, Poles never embraced Stalinism and the communist period featured waves of strikes.
As hopes for prosperity dwindled, labour organisation increased, backed by a committed intelligentsia. The triumphal visit of Pope John Paul II to his homeland in 1978 dramatically increased political ferment. The organisation and articulation of the labour movement became superior to that of the demoralised Communist government and, by 1980, the government was no longer in a position to use force against its opponents. Initial demands for wage rises soon took on more general political and economic overtones. Poland's workers' delegations convened under the Solidarity trade union banner, led by Lech Wałęsa. Solidarity had a dramatic effect on the whole of Polish society, garnering a membership of 10 million in its first month, a million of these coming from Communist Party ranks. After more than a generation of restraint, the Poles launched themselves into a spontaneous and chaotic sort of democracy. Although the government had ceded to the workers the right to organise and the right to strike all this was proving a bit much to take: martial law was introduced in 1981, Solidarity was suspended and its leaders, including Wałęsa, interned. The brutalities of martial law were gradually relaxed but Solidarity was forced to operate as an underground organisation until the Gorbachov-instigated perestroika filtered through to Poland.
Semifree elections were held in 1989 and Solidarity succeeded in getting an overwhelming majority of its supporters elected to the upper house of parliament. Wałęsa became president in 1990 but his rule was a gradual decline from euphoria to disillusionment. There were no economic miracles, no political stability and Wałęsa's presidential style and his accomplishments were repeatedly questioned by practically all political parties and the majority of the electorate.
Former communists Aleksander Kwaśniewski and Włodzimierz Cimoszewicz tipped Wałęsa from the presidency in late 1995, holding office until late 1997, when Jerzy Buzek's Solidarity-led coalition took the reins. But it wasn't long before Aleksander Kwaśniewski, running for the Democratic Left Alliance, recaptured political control and, to top it all off, was then re-elected for a second presidential term in October 2000 - in the same elections, the once-revered Wałęsa won less than 1% of the vote.
Aleksander Kwaśniewski won a second term in 2000. The political system has been marked by stability and a willingness to confront its past - in 2001 Polish citizens were allowed to view the files kept on them by the Communist secret police. While the economy has attracted international investment, unemployment remains high and income growth low.
However, the new Poland is garnering international credibility as it capitalises on its material strengths - it became a full NATO member in 1999 and joined the EU in 2004. Its international standing has been boosted by its role in the US-led coalition that invaded Iraq in 2003.
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Culture
Artists in Poland today are still shaking off the legacy of Communism under Stalin. During this period, Socialist Realism was the dominant style, infusing the visual arts, architecture, literature and music. Fine fiction writers such as Isaac Bashevis Singer, whose evocative works capture the spirit of Jewish Poland, put Polish literature under the spotlight. Current prominent exponents of Polish culture include writers such as Ryszard Kapuscinski and composer Henryk Górecki. Their work contributes to the formulation of a contemporary cultural identity for this fascinating country.
Polish food is hearty and filling, with thick soups and sauces, abundant in potatoes and dumplings, rich in meat but not in vegetables. Characteristic ingredients are dill, marjoram, caraway seeds and wild mushrooms; favourite dishes include bigos (sauerkraut and meat) and barszcz (beetroot soup). There are four daily meals in Poland: an early breakfast, a light snack for second breakfast, a substantial lunch taken after work, and a small supper before bed. Tea and vodka are the favoured Polish beverages, both consumed with fervour, but to somewhat differing effect.
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Environment
Poland is roughly square, reaching a maximum of about 680km (422mi) from west to east and 650km (404mi) from north to south. It's bordered by the Baltic Sea to the northwest, by Germany to the west, the Czech and Slovak republics to the south and Ukraine, Belarus, Lithuania and Russia to the east. The northern part of Poland is varied and gently undulating, relatively well forested and covered by several thousand postglacial lakes. The flat central belt is the main agricultural area, watered by Poland's longest river, the Vistula, which, like all Poland's rivers, runs towards the north, draining into the Baltic Sea. Moving south, the terrain rises, culminating in the west with the Sudeten Mountains and to the east with the Carpathian Mountains, which run along the southern frontier. The highest peak is Mt Rysy (2499m/8199ft) in the Carpathian's Tatra Mountains, Poland's alpine range.
Poland's national parks are scattered evenly throughout the country, with a concentration in the mountainous regions of the southeast. 'Landscape parks' can be found throughout Poland; these are scenic regions but not so strictly preserved.
Forests cover just over a quarter of Poland's territory, and are populated by hare, deer and wild boar. Some brown bears and wildcats live in the mountain forests and elks can be found in the woods of the far northeast. Several hundred European bison, brought to the brink of extinction early last century, live in the Białowieża National Park. Airborne creatures have proved more resilient in urbanised and polluted Europe, as a cursory glance at the Polish sky will attest. Storks, which build their nests on the roofs and chimneys of the houses in the countryside, are much loved.
Poland's climate is influenced by a continental climate from the east and a maritime climate from the west. As a result, the weather is changeable, with significant differences from day to day and from year to year. Winter one year can be almost without snow, whereas another year heavy snows can paralyse transport for days. Generally, central Poland is the driest, while the mountains receive much more rain (and snow in winter). Summer is usually warm and the most pleasant time to visit, but the plentiful sunshine is interspersed with heavy rains.
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Getting There & Away
There are direct flights to Warsaw from major European destinations, as well as from US cities such as New York and Chicago, which have large Polish communities. There is no departure tax. Train and bus fares from some European destinations can be as expensive as discounted air fares, unless you have some kind of transport pass. Road connections with Poland are good and getting better, but there are still border delays, especially when crossing from other Eastern European countries. There are sea connections from the UK and Scandinavia to Gdańsk, Gdynia and Świnoujście. Most services have car-freighting facilities.
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Getting Around
There is a comprehensive network of domestic air routes. All flights between regional cities travel via Warsaw, and connections aren't always convenient. There are attractive standby fares for young people and promotional fares on selected flights in certain periods that are available to everybody. The trains are pretty good and where they don't go the buses do. As well as the plodding government service, private bus companies undercut each other viciously on many intercity routes. Driving your own vehicle around Poland is by far the most convenient option, but don't bring your spiffing new Jaguar, even if you forewent the walnut trim: it's gonna get ripped off. Fill up your tank every time you see a petrol station and carry some spare mechanical bits and pieces, otherwise you'll be waiting around for a couple of weeks for them to arrive from Germany. Rural Poland, being mostly flat and relatively quiet, is quite conducive to cycle touring, but the urban areas are bike-unfriendly, with few dedicated paths and many hostile motorists.
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Further Reading
For a taste of Polish fiction, try Jerzy Kosinski's The Painted Bird.
Poland by James A Michener is a dramatised version of Polish history. It reads well and is solidly based on fact.
God's Playground: a History of Poland by Norman Davies is one of the best accounts of Polish history. This two-volume beautifully readable work has at the same time a rare analytical depth, thus being a perfect key to understanding a thousand years of the Polish nation.
Jews in Poland: A Documentary History by Iwo Cyprian Pogonowski provides a comprehensive record of half a millennium of Polish-Jewish relations in the country which, until WW II, was the major centre of Jewish culture in Europe. Forgotten Holocaust: The Poles under German Occupation 1939-1945 by Richard C Lukas is yet another carefully researched account of these cruel days.
Turning to the more recent history, The Polish Revolution: Solidarity 1980-82 by Timothy Garton Ash, is probably the best insight into the Solidarity era.
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